Trás-os-Montes: beyond the mountains
The old Casino in Pedras Salgadas, Trás-os-Montes. Photo by Filipe Gill
“Para lá do Marão mandam os que lá estão”
If you look at the map of Portugal, Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro are the remote area on the top right-hand corner, very far from the rulers in Lisbon. Its territory consists of 2 ‘distritos’: Vila Real and Bragança, the city that gives name to our last royal dynasty, the House of Bragança.
Welcome to Trás-os-Montes where the winters are cold and the people take shit from no one.
The western part of Trás-os-Montes has a very dramatic landscape with mostly mountainous terrain with deep valleys leading rivers like the Corgo and Tua to the Douro. The eastern part is mostly a plateau sparsely populated but as special and fascinating.
Its historic borders are: to the north and east, Spain – Galicia and Castilla Leon, respectively – to the South the Douro River and to the west the Tâmega River.
11 special things from the food of Trás-os-Montes:
Posta Mirandesa A big steak from the ‘Mirandesa’ breed of cattle originating in Miranda do Douro in the far East of Trás-os-Montes.
Presunto de Chaves Probably the most famous Portuguese cured ham. Very different from the black pig of the Alentejo, it is sweeter and moister. Made with the local breed of pigs called ‘Bísaro’.
Feijoada à Transmontana Bean stew (similar to Favada in Spain and Cassoulet in France, only better : ). Made with red beans, cabbage and plenty of ‘enchidos’ – smoked sausages.
Pão de Centeio Rye bread. The bread in Trás-os-Montes is still made in communal ovens and is an important part of the diet, just like in Alentejo.
Alheira de Mirandela More about this special sausage in a dedicated article.
Trutas de Boticas The trout in Boticas comes straight from the river Beça. After a period of near extinction, it is now protected and preserved in natural ‘viveiros’ thanks to the NGO Celtiberus. The traditional way to cook it in olive oil with ‘presunto’ andserved with boiled potatoes.
Pasteis de Chaves A great snack made with puff pastry and a filling of meat
Enchidos de Vinhais This town near Bragança is considered the capital of ‘Fumeiro’, smoked sausages.
Cuscos Very rare to find, but a very special tradition of the cuisine of Eastern Trás-os-Montes. It is made with wheat flour, water and salt, similar to the Italian pasta but with a texture that reminds of rice.
Pão Teixeira A sweet bread from the Douro region.
Folar de Valpaços Folar is associated with Easter. This version involves poultry meat, ‘presunto’ and ‘enchidos’.
(Thank you Valdemar Igreja for the wisdom and inspiration)
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A note about the women of Trás-os-Montes (a.k.a. Transmontanas)
On a recent trip back to this land, I noticed a curious think: four of the places we stopped for food had a masculine name: A Tasca do Tó in Vila Pouca de Aguiar, O Mário and Jaime in Vidago and Barroso in Boticas. But in all of them, we were welcomed and served by women.
Two of them were really special: A Tasca do Tó hosted by Luísa and her niece and Barroso where the owner/chef is Cristina a remarkable woman and a great cook (see pictures below)
Stewed Wild Boar, here known as Porco da Serra, Pig from the Mountain. Excelente depth of flavour. Photo by Filipe Gill
Cristina, a woman with a son to raise and a restaurant to run. Photo by Filipe Gill
Suggested music: Traz os Montes, Né Ladeiras
